PET SAFETY AT HOME

 

 

 

 

Summer is winding down, schools are back in session and the fall season is quickly approaching. The security and safety of our pets at home is very important as they are likely to be spending more time indoors with us as the heat of summer turns into crisp autumn air.

 

Cats, dogs, kittens and puppies are lively and curious, which can get them into serious trouble.  Remember that your pet sees everything from a much lower vantage point than you—like a baby who has begun to crawl—and may be attracted to things you do not see while standing up.

It’s impossible to totally “pet-proof” your home against accidents, but here are some recommendations:

 

• Securely screen all windows to help prevent falls, and keep your pet off of balconies, upper porches, and high decks.

 

• Keep trash cans covered or inside a latched cabinet.

• Securely store cleaning supplies, laundry detergent, bleach, paint, paint thinner, pesticides, fertilizer, disinfectant, mothballs, roach & rat poisons, medications, and antifreeze. Make sure you keep these in tightly closed areas to which your pet cannot gain access. Keep all cabinet doors closed securely. Child-proof latches are helpful to ensure that little paws won’t pry them open.

 

• Clean all antifreeze from driveway and garage floor as one taste can be lethal to animals.

 

• Remove poisonous house- plants, or place them in hanging baskets completely out of reach of all pets. Some plants that are poisonous include amaryllis, English ivy, narcissus, dieffenbachia, mistletoe, poinsettia, holly, philodendron, azalea, rhododendron, daffodil daphne, foxglove, bleeding heart, potato, iris, ivy, oleander, rubber plant, tobacco, tulip, clematis, morning glory, and weeping fig. Please make sure any hanging plants can not be jumped on from nearby surfaces, as kittens are quite agile.

• Keep toilet lids down. Young pets may decide to play in the water, and the lid could close and trap them, causing them to drown. Toilet bowl cleansers are harmful if swallowed.

 

• Some foods that are toxic to dogs are: alcohol, avocados, raisins, currants, cooked bones, (causes stomach lacerations), walnuts, macadamia nuts, onions, garlic, grapes (can cause kidney failure), fatty foods, chocolate, xylitol, caffeine, some varieties of mushrooms, dairy products (too much, can cause diarrhea). If you suspect that your pet has ingested any of these items, call the National Pet Poison helpline at 1-800-213-6680 or get them to the veterinarian ASAP.

 

• Keep all foods out of reach. Even if the food isn’t harmful, the wrapper could be.

 

• Store plastic bags where the young pet cannot get inside them and suffocate or chew/tear them and swallow bits of plastic. Wire twist ties should be out of reach as well. Plastic six-pack holders used for packaging beverages should be cut apart and discarded immediately.

 

• Put away children’s toys and games, as animals could choke on small parts.

 

• Keep exposed electrical cords as short as possible, or tack them against a baseboard so the pet cannot play with or chew on them.

 

• Check for and block any small spaces, hooks or holes inside cabinets, or behind washer/dryer units. Close crawl spaces securely.

 

• Never give your pet any medication without first consulting with your veterinarian. Never use over-the-counter products on pets without first checking with your veterinarian. Veterinarians are the true pet experts. Guard against potential exposure to human medications. Even in small doses, aspirin, acetaminophen, diet pills, sleeping pills, and tranquilizers can all be fatal to your pet.

 

• Keep all dresser drawers, trunks, and closets closed. Always check to see where the pet is before closing refrigerator doors, the oven, washer, dryer or garage door.

• Keep laundry and shoes behind closed doors. (Drawstrings and buttons can cause major problems if swallowed)

 

• Always be sure your pet is secure before leaving them home alone. We strongly recommend the pet be confined in a plastic travel crate for at least the first few months. 
  

 

• If the pet is allowed outdoors, always be sure to sound your horn and knock on the hood before starting and moving your vehicle. Kittens especially like to crawl up under the hood to keep warm.

 

• Keep sewing supplies out of your pet’s reach. Buttons, needles, pins, and thread can hurt its mouth or cause intestinal obstructions if swallowed. The same goes for nails, staples, screws, brads, earplugs, and aluminum can tabs.

 

• Do not use electric blankets for the pet’s bedding.

 

• Never put anything other than the appropriate collar around a pet’s neck. Ribbons can easily choke the pet if they should get caught on anything.

 

• Always look out for paws, noses and tails when you shut doors and scoot chairs.

 

Always leash your pet before leaving the house, then when you come home take it off in same place. The consistency gives them the signal that it is time to go out or return.

 

Following these simple tips can keep your pets safe and healthy for years to come. It will give you peace of mind to know you’re doing what you can to protect them while they are at home. Kindly share this information with other pet owners and friends. We are a veterinary clinic located in Millbrae, California.

Enjoy your Labor Day Weekend as we close out the summer.  Look for our next blog in September.

 

 

Capuchino Veterinary Clinic

(650) 583-1500

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Sink or Swim

Pet Water Safety

 

Pets enjoy playing and swimming when it’s hot outside. It keeps their coats and body temperature regulated correctly. When spending time outdoors, it’s essential to keep your pet safe and cool in order to avoid dangerous things like heat stroke, poisoning and others as a result. Safety is important when it comes to swimming and playing around water. Here are some things pet owners need to know in order to keep everyone safe.

 

Water Safety

For pools and freshwater

• Some dogs and surprisingly cats enjoy swimming. Others cannot swim, while others just avoid the water. Be conscious of your pet’s preferences and skills before immersing them in water. Never force a pet to do something they would not do themselves.

• If they are swimming for the first time, start in shallow water, coax them in by calling their name. Encourage with toys, treats, or let them follow another experienced pet they are friendly with.

• Never throw your pet into the water.

• Watch carefully the first time that your pet begins to paddle with their front legs, be ready to lift their hind legs as a guide to help them float. The process should happen quickly, if not, don’t force it. Do not stress the animal. Try again another time.

• They will overdo it, swimming is very hard work and they may tire easily. Limit their time swimming.

• If you have your own pool, make sure your pet knows where the stairs or ladder are located. Be sure that pool covers are firmly in place; pets have been known to slip in under openings in the covers and drown.

• Supervise all pets in or around water—not all are good swimmers.

• Heat and open water can cause sunburn and heat stroke in a matter of minutes with some pets. Keep them off hot sand or buy socks for their paws. The hot sand can blister pads and paws.

• Buy your pet a life jacket—then use it. Just like people, it’s easy for your pet to develop a cramp in their leg, become exhausted too far from shore, or in rivers, get overwhelmed by surging swells

 

• When swimming in Freshwater you need to make sure your pet does not drink it. Please provide drinking water that is easily accessible.
• Try to keep your pet from drinking pool water, which contains chlorine and other chemicals that can easily cause a bellyache. Water from standing water, lakes, ponds and rivers should also be avoided as it often contains nasty parasites that cause vomiting, diarrhea and other health issues.
• Be careful with the water you allow your pet to drink. Don’t give them water you wouldn’t drink yourself.

 

Beach Tips

For Saltwater Swimming

• Provide a shady rest spot with plenty of fresh water for your pet.
• Dogs and cats, especially those with short hair, white fur, and pink skin, will sunburn quickly. Limit exposure during the day and apply sun block to their ears and nose 30 minutes before going outside. Childrens spray on sun block can be applied with a cotton ball. The fairer the skin (pink) the more frequent you need to apply.

• Check with a lifeguard for daily water conditions. Look yourself carefully to understand the land and seascape.

• Dogs are easy targets for sea lice and jellyfish.

• Ocean swimming: be careful of waves crashing on top of a pet, the strong tides or rip currents below the surface that may pull them under or in.

•  Playing on the sand is strenuous exercise. A pet that is out of shape can easily pull a tendon or ligament, so keep an eye on all activity.

• Not all beaches permit pets; check local ordinances before heading out. Leashes are generally in order.

 Salt and other minerals in ocean water will damage and dry a pets coat. After a day swimming in salt water, or in the pool with chlorine, you will want to bathe your pet.

 

Easy steps to Shampoo Your Pet:

1.  Your pet’s skin is quite different from human skin. It is thinner, has no sweat glands, and has a different PH.  Therefore most human shampoos are not satisfactory.  Neither are many over-the-counter pet shampoo products, especially if your pet has any type of skin abnormality, disease, or flea repellant topically on the skin.

 2. Bathe your pet whenever they are dirty or smell bad.  We recommend bathing your pet at the frequency necessary to keep its skin clean to prevent drying of the skin or removing topical flea products. You should use a soapless detergentless shampoo if possible.

 3.  BRUSH and COMB out mats BEFORE the bath.

 4.  Push 1 piece of cotton in the ears, only if dental floss is tied tightly around the cotton leaving enough to fall outside the ears to pull each piece out with.

 5. Lubricate the eyes with mineral oil, castor oil, Vaseline, or eye ointment to prevent burning or irritating the eyes with the soap or dipping solution.

 6. WET THOROUGHLY before applying soap. Use lukewarm water for your pets comfort. Use COOL water if the pet is “itchy.” Always start from the head and work towards the back to keep fleas from running into the ears, eyes or nose.

 7.  THOROUGHLY LATHER. ADD MORE WATER (INSTEAD OF SOAP) TO INCREASE THE LATHER.

 8.  Allow the soap lather to stand on the pet’s body according to the directions on the shampoo.

 9. Use a sponge or wash cloth to wash the face. Using the fingers is better than any brush for  lathering and scrubbing massaging the skin! 

10. RINSE THOROUGHLY to prevent skin irritation, again starting from the head and working    towards the back. 

11.  Repeat the soap procedure if the pet is extremely dirty or continues to smell.

12.. Squeeze hair to remove excess water before applying any dip solution towel or blow dry.

If your pet is cold or shakes cover then with a towel and take to warm place.

Your pet may be sensitive to wet conditions. Please take care to honor those sensitivities as much as possible. A healthy pet is a happy member of the family.

 

Thank you for reading our pet care blog. We enjoy your feedback. If there are subjects you would like to see covered in future issues, please message them to us. We will honor requests according to the editorial calendar for this blog. The frequency has changed to a monthly publication. Look for our next issue in August.

Capuchino Veterinary Clinic

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On The Road Again……

 

This weeks blog is focusing on something most of us do over the summer…traveling with our pets. This checklist will help you have an enjoyable vacation when traveling with your pet this summer.

 

•  Secure your pet in the car. This will help your own peace of mind, to prevent injury from sudden movement, stops, or accidents. Using a leash, harness, or booster seat (for smaller dogs) in an automobile ensures a stable, secure, safe ride to your destination.

 

• Another alternative is to “crate train” your pet. This is the best choice for cats. Chances are that your pet is already crate trained. If not, it is a good idea to leave the crate out for a few weeks prior to your trip with a blanket with your pets scent in it. They will get used to having it around without anxiety or fear. This way they can go in at their leisure and realize it is a safe place, not a scary one. The crate actually becomes security to your pet. Keep the pet crated when the vehicle is moving for security and safety. The crate will help protect the pet in case of an accident.

 

• Be sure the pet wears a collar, with current Rabies Tag, and ID Tag with current contact (cell number since you are traveling) information on it, in case it should become lost. Updated microchips are advised as well.

 

• Take the usual food. Sudden diet changes are the most common causes of vomiting and diarrhea.

 

 

• Never assume you will be able to find special diets away from home carry ample amounts. Stick to a routine feeding schedule.

 

• A large supply of drinking water should also be considered to allow gradual change. Simply take a gallon jug, add new water to the jug as the home water is used out of the container. It is always a good idea to have extra unopened full jugs just in case you run into car problems, it gets hotter than forecasted or the first jug gets spilled. Things happen, and it is always good to be prepared.

 

• Don’t forget to bring any prescribed medications required by your pet, and a cooler with an ice pack in it for any medications that need to remain refrigerated until you get to your destination. Then refrigerate promptly. A basic first-aid kit is good to carry with you as well.

 

• Take the pet’s vaccinations records and rabies certificate. Many motels and campgrounds are now requiring proof of vaccinations.

 

• When driving, stop every two (2) hours to exercise the pet and give water, more frequently if the dog or cat is panting or it is a warm day. If the pet is ancy or unsettled, it may be trying to tell you it has to stop and go do its “business”. It is also a good idea for the human driver and passengers to get out and take a stretch break.

• Tranquilizers and carsickness medications are available from our office. They work best if given on an empty stomach. Do not feed the pet for 4-6 hours prior to administering the medication.  We usually recommend only feeding the pet once you reach each day’s destination each day for best effect. Over-the- counter products will not work.

 

• Please be responsible for your pet’s eliminations. Take it to suitable places for urination. Carry a supply of plastic bags which can be placed on the hand-then turned inside out after the stool is grasped in your hand, tie it up and toss in garbage can.

 

• Never leave your pet unattended in the car. We cannot emphasize this enough.  This applies to long and short trips during the summer. Hot cars kill dogs and cats in a very short period of time.

 

• Consider the feelings of others before taking your pet to visit friends or relatives. Secure your pet on a leash, for safety, to avoid loss, and consideration of everyone. Be sure they have no allergy problems and really do not mind the pet accompanying you. Otherwise, everyone will have a better time (including your pet) if the pet is left with friends, relatives, neighbors, or in our care.  Ask to see our boarding facilities. Have a safe and fabulous trip!

 

Ticks and Lyme disease

 

 

Welcome to this weeks topic “Ticks and Lyme Disease”.  We are focusing on what to do, should you find one on your pet. It is Spring and we are all more active, hiking, going to parks and spending more time outdoors. Here are some tips to keep your pets and family safe all season long.

Lyme disease is caused by a parasite, Borrelia Burgdorferi, which is transmitted by the bite of a tick to puppies, dogs, kittens, cats, horses, cattle and Humans.

 

There are many types and sizes of ticks which can be responsible for transmitting Lyme disease. The one characteristic they all share in common is a hard shell. Without training there is no sure way to know whether the tick you find on your pet or your self is the hard shelled type that caries Lyme disease.

Until proven otherwise assume that any tick might carry Lyme disease. Never touch the tick with bare hands as its contents can contaminate an open wound and pass the disease into you.

 

If you find a tick or ticks on your pet you can purchase a tick removing kit to aid in their removal. The important thing to remember is that you must remove the entire body including the head and mouth parts. Leaving any of the tick embedded in the skin will act like a splinter foreign body. Any foreign body left in your skin (and especially a tick) can cause irritation until it is removed.

 

If you don’t have a safe way to remove a tick, there are many effective products you can purchase which will kill ticks shortly after application. There are  liquid products that are applied onto your pet’s back. There are traditional plastic collard that are fastened around the neck. It is impregnated with a powdered tick killing medication that  is designed to shed off the collar and spread over the entire body within twenty four hours, killing ticks that come into contact with it.

 

It takes at least eighteen hours before the Lyme disease parasite is transmitted from the embedded tick. Act quickly and purchase a tick removing tool or tick killing product and you can prevent Lyme disease from infecting you or your pet.

 

When applying tick killing drops onto your pet, the goal is for the product to contact only the skin. Drops that stay on the fur cannot spread and therefore decreases the effectiveness or the duration of the product. For the most effective results part your pet’s fur and apply the drops only onto the skin. Use as many spots as necessary to apply the products only onto the skin.

 

If you find a tick burrowed into you, it is very tempting to rip it out, and smash it into a million pieces. Don’t Do This!  Remove the tick by twisting its body clockwise or counterclockwise. Protect the hand touching the tick by wearing a rubber or latex glove. You can cover your hand with a plastic bag if a glove is not available. After two or three turns the tick should release its grip and allow itself to be pulled out.

 

Check to be sure the head came out with the tick. Put the tick into a plastic bag and take it to the nearest Department of Public Health. They will be able to identify the type of tick that bit you and confirm that it is a type that carries Lyme disease. If it is the type that carries Lyme disease, they can grow the organism from the tick and see if it is infected. If it is, your doctor can prescribe antibiotics that can kill the Lyme disease organism.

 

If you are camping and will not be able to take the tick to the Department of Public Health, immediately, put it into a plastic bag and keep it in your cooler. Doing this gives you a better chance that the tick will still be identifiable and the Lyme disease organism will still be alive to culture if it has infected the tick.

 

How do you know if your pet has been bitten by a tick carrying Lyme disease? It’s a two part process.  First you can determine if your pet has been bitten by a tick if you see the tick burrowed into its skin. Once removed, take the tick to the nearest public health laboratory. Your public health department lab is qualified to tell you if it is the correct type of tick which carries the Lyme disease organism. If it is, your public health lab can attempt to grow the organism and determine if it is present.

If your pet has not been protected by vaccination here are the symptoms you might observe:

1) Recurrent lameness in one or multiple joints due to arthritis caused by the organism. Affected joints may be swollen, warm and painful when touched

2) Fever

3) Reluctant to eat or drink

4) Lymph node swelling found in the node closest to the tick bite

5) Kidney disease, which can progress to kidney failure with symptoms of increased thirst and increased urination, vomiting, diarrhea, weight loss and fluid accumulation under the skin

6) Heart problems

 

There are tests available which can diagnose the presence of Lyme disease in your pet. Only one type of test can distinguish between real Lyme disease and vaccination against Lyme disease.

 

If your pet is infected with Lyme disease early in the course of the disease, there are antibiotics which can reduce but not completely remove the Lyme organism. The antibiotics will also greatly reduce the symptoms caused by the Lyme disease organism.

 

Several companies manufacture vaccinations which protect against Lyme disease. Statistics show that after two vaccinations the first year, 68% of the vaccinated pets were protected from becoming sick from Lyme disease if bit by an infected tick. The study also showed that another vaccination given on the one year anniversary of the first vaccination series  will protect your pet up to 92% from getting sick if bit by an infected tick..

 

If you want to schedule an appointment to have a tick removed, to discuss tick bite prevention or get your pet examined and vaccinated against Lyme disease,

 

Call Dr Brooks-Korn’s office to make an appointment

(650) 583-1500

 

The Dog (and Cat) Days of Summer

 

 

 

“The Dog (and Cat) Days of Summer”

 

It’s summertime, and the living isn’t always easy for our animal friends. Dogs & cats suffer from the same problems humans do, such as overheating, dehydration, and even sunburn. By taking some simple precautions, you can celebrate the season and keep your pets healthy and happy.

 

• A visit to the veterinarian for a spring or early summer check-up is a must: add to that a test for heartworms. Ask us for the best flea and tick controls for your individual pet.

• Never leave your pet alone in a vehicle, hyperthermia can be fatal quickly. Even with the windows open, a parked automobile can become a furnace in no time. Parking in the shade offers little protection, as the sun shifts during the day.

• Carry a gallon thermos filled with cold, fresh water when traveling with your pet.

• The right time for playtime is in the cool of the early morning or evening, but never after a meal or when the weather is hot & humid.

• Days at the beach are a no-no, unless you can guarantee a shaded spot and a supply of fresh water for your companion.  Salty dogs should be rinsed off after a dip in the ocean.

• Fireworks are no fun for pets, so please resist the urge to take them to Independence Day displays.  Instead, keep them safe from the noise in a quiet, sheltered area at home.

• Street smarts: When the temperature is very high, don’t let your dog stand on hot asphalt.  Its body can heat up quickly, and sensitive paw pads can burn. Keep walks during these times to a minimum.

• Be especially sensitive to old and overweight pets in hot weather. Keep pets with heart or lung diseases indoors in air conditioning as much as possible. This also applies to snub-nosed dogs, such as bulldogs, Pekingese, Boston terriers, Lhasa Apsos, & Shih Tzus.

• Provide fresh water and plenty of shade for pets kept outdoors.  A properly constructed doghouse serves best.  Bring your pet inside during the heat of the day to rest in a cool part of the house.

• Summer is the time when gardens, lawns, and trees are sprayed with insecticides, so avoid walking your dog in suspect areas. These chemicals can cause harm, even death.  If you suspect your pet has been poisoned, call your veterinarian immediately.

• Good grooming can stave off summer skin problems, especially for dogs with heavy coats.  Shaving the hair to a 1-inch length never down to the skin, which robs Rover of protection from the sun will prevent overheating.  Frequent brushing helps keep cats tangle-free.

• Don’t let them run wild!  Unsupervised, off-leash activity can lead to an animal contacting a fatal disease or injury. Pet theft can also be a problem.

• A tip for all seasons: if you must tether your dog outside, use a buckle collar with identification tags.
• Never use correction collars, which can cause choking.

• Make sure there are no open, unscreened windows or doors in your home, through which animals can fall or jump.

• Watch for coolant leaking from your car.  Its sweet taste attracts pets, and ingesting  just a little can be fatal.  To be safe, use animal-friendly products that use propylene glycol instead of ethylene glycol.

 

Be sure your pet wears an ID tag. Keep it up to date. It’s a fact: A lost pet without a pet ID tags seldom finds its way home.

If your pet Is exposed to high temperatures:   

• Look for signs of heat stress—heavy panting, glazed eyes, a rapid pulse, unsteadiness, a staggering gait, vomiting, or a deep red or purple tongue.

If your pet is overheated, move him to a cooler area and take your pet immediately to a veterinarian—it could save his life. Call ahead, if possible, to be sure your veterinarian is available.

Following these simple guidelines will ensure that you and your pet will enjoy the Summer.

HELP! MY PET GOT SKUNKED!!!

 

HELP! MY PET JUST GOT SKUNKED, WHAT DO I DO???

 

When your pet comes face to backside with an annoyed skunk the outcome is usually very smelly but can also be a real emergency for your pet.

 

You’re first clue that a pet vs skunk squabble has taken place is when your pet comes running into the house rubbing its body on every piece of furniture you own. If skunk confrontations are a common occurrence where you live, you should keep your skunk cleaning supplies outside in a place that can be reached with one hand as the other hand is usually dragging you pet as far away from the house as possible. If you know this situation occurs commonly in your area, you should call the manufacturer of your furniture and find out how to deal with skunk odor on each piece before you have to deal with the problem.

 

Keep all the necessary supplies for removing the skunk odor in the pail you will use to mix the ingredients. Leave the pail in a location where everyone knows to look. There is nothing worse then trying to drive your smelly self in what use to be your clean car to an all night market or pharmacy and pick up supplies while every one stares at you holding their noses.

 

Your kit should contain a leash to tether your pet to the area you will do the cleaning. This area should have access to water and an overhead light so you can assess the situation and see your pet as you do the cleaning. It’s nice if you have an attachment called a ‘hose bib’ that screws onto your sink faucet which will allow a garden hose to screw onto it. This allows the bathing outdoors to be done with warm, not freezing cold water.

 

You will need the following supplies and a clean bucket to mix the ingredients. 3 bottles of Hydrogen Peroxide, 1/4 cup of baking soda, 1 teaspoon of dish washing liquid and up to a gallon of clean water, depending on the size of the pet you are washing. It is easier if you pre mix the solution so that you can move directly onto bathing rather then having to stop to mix the solution. Keep the mixing directions sealed in a plastic baggie taped to the bucket for easy reading.

 

Next, put on your two piece raincoat including a hood, which will protect you as your pet shakes the cleaning mixture all over you. Remember to complete the outfit with eye protection and a pair of Playtex gloves. You will have as much trouble getting the skunk smell off of your skin as you will off of your pet’s fur.

 

Examine your pet starting with the eyes. If they were hit directly it is imperative to flush both eyes with copious amounts of neutral temperature water. I find that cupping my hand under each eye and letting the water flow from the hose down my hand and indirectly into the eyes doesn’t frighten the pet as much as directly squirting the water into the eyes.

 

 

You will know the eyes have been rinsed well enough when the pawing at them stops and the spasm caused by the burning of the skunk spray stops so the eyes stay open. Be patient and thorough as this may take a long time to accomplish. At this point apply a large amount of sterile eye ointment (available from your veterinarian) or use Vaseline or KY jelly to protect the eyes from the cleaning solution you will have to wash the rest of the head with.

 

Next, carefully sponge the mixture over the entire face, except for the eyes. If the mixture gets into the eyes, rinse the eyes as discussed before and reapply the protective ointment. Pour, sponge or brush if necessary copious amounts of the mixture over the body and down the legs, repeating the process until the entire odor is gone.

 

As an aside, over the last thirty years I have probably tried every store bought and home made remedy to deal with skunk odor. Only the preceding recipe has reliably worked to remove skunk spray every time.

 

As an aside, don’t waste your time trying to make an appointment with a grooming parlor or trying to make an appointment with our clinic for doing the bathing. Most grooming parlors won’ t bathe your pet because the odor is so strong it will permeate where ever you take it. All any one will smell the whole day is skunk, and that includes the clean, groomed pets who will also go home smelling like a skunk.

 

You might call grooming parlors in advance and see if any will wash skunked animals. It’s worth a try because dealing with a skunked pet is no picnic.

 

You may have a medical emergency if skunk spray goes directly into the eyes and after flushing the eyes with copious amounts of neutral temperature water the squinting won’t stops. If it doesn’t, call us immediately to bring your pet in for an exam. Do not however bring your pet into the clinic. We will examine your pet’s eyes in the isolation area of the clinic to minimize the contamination of the clinic by skunk odor.

 

If you have all the supplies but need help with the directions, call our office and our technicians will help you through process.      (650) 583-1500

 

Have a clothes pin around for your nose and lots of strong scenting or deodorizing patches, candles or plug ins around. It won’t make much difference to a newcomer entering your house, but it will make a difference to you.

CANINE SENIOR PET INFORMATION

CANINE SENIOR PET INFORMATION

 

 

Most pet owners fail to realize that pet’s age more rapidly than humans, and the gradual onset of old age problems in a previously healthy pet may be both unexpected and distressing. The object of health care of older pets is to make them feel better and have the longest productive, useful life possible. We cannot cure them–there is no cure for old age.

 

As our pets age, stress upon vital internal organs is likely to become more serious. Vitamin requirements generally increase, and nutritional needs differ greatly from those of younger animals. Sources of chronic infection, such as tooth and gum disease, can adversely affect internal organs and contribute to failing health.

 

Aging also increases the risk of arthritis, disc disease, and other skeletal problems. Many of these problems are readily detectable and can be controlled if diagnosed early and treated properly.

 

 

MAJOR HEALTH RECOMMENDATIONS FOR DOGS OVER 6 YEARS OF AGE INCLUDE:

 

•    Annual Physical Examinations are the cornerstone of early disease diagnosis.

 

•    Annual Vaccinations For: Distemper, Hepatitis, Lepto, Parvovirus, Coronavirus, Rabies, and Bordetella.

 

•      Fecal Examination every six months for internal parasites is recommended.

 

•     Give Heartworm Preventive all year long and have BLOOD CHECKED once each year for Heartworms.

 

♦   Complete Geriatric Health Evaluations should be started at 6-8 years of age consisting of:

 

•    Complete Blood Count

 

•     Blood Chemistry Profiles for liver and kidney function

 

•     Urinalysis for early signs of diabetes and kidney degeneration

 

•     Check Teeth for need of Dental Hygiene every six (6) months:

 

•      Tartar on teeth leads to kidney and heart valve infections.  Keeping teeth clean can add 2 years to the pet’s life. Tartar also works up between the tooth and gum causing the tooth to loosen. Treat teeth and gums with our recommended pet dentifrice DAILY!

•     Spay or Neuter (at an early age)

 

•     Encourage exercise.

 

•      Feed a HIGH QUALITY balanced diet.  Prevent Obesity:  Cheap foods utilize cheap sources of protein which damage liver and kidneys.

 

•    Wet food to increase water consumption.

•     Premium foods are worth the extra cost.

 

•      Special diets can be used to promote better health after (early) indications of kidney or liver damage

 

•      Restrict salt as much as practical.

 

•      Vitamin and Trace Mineral Supplements

 

   Older dogs require four times as much:

 

•      Thiamine, Choline, and Zinc. Zinc is very important for muscle function and hair coat. Even though

Commercial foods contain Zinc; the Zinc is often not absorbed because of high calcium levels, which impair

Zinc absorption.

 

•      Routine shampooing for proper skin and hair coat care.

Dental Hygiene for Dogs and Cats

 

 

DENTAL HYGIENE

 

First the good news:

 

Cats & Dogs seldom develop tooth decay and form cavities, as do humans. However, the dog and cat are not without  major dental problems!  They may be born without a full set of baby or adult teeth.  They also may be born with a condition called malocclusion, where the upper jaw (maxilla) and lower jaw (mandible) do not align in a perfect scissors bite as is normal.  They may develop what is called an overbite, where the maxilla sits much farther forward than the mandible. They may develop the opposite or under bite,  where the mandible protrudes much farther forward than the maxilla.

 

Another condition may be seen called retained deciduous or baby teeth.  In this condition the baby tooth is not pushed out by the adult tooth and thus both the adult and baby tooth try to exist in the same space at the same time, causing one of the teeth to be displaced.

 

Your pet may acquire dental problems where plaque and tartar build up on the teeth and gingivitis forms on gums.  The first step in the downfall of the tooth is the formation of plaque.  Food material, bacteria, and saliva accumulate and adhere to the tooth surface, forming a soft substance called “Plaque.”

 

“If the buildup of plaque is allowed to continue, it hardens from its mineral content and forms a hard “chalk-like” material known as tartar.  The tartar buildup eventually causes erosion of the gums along with inflammation and subsequently invades the periodontal membrane.  At this point the destruction of the tooth is almost complete.

 

This stage of dental disease affects the periodontal membrane and is the result of advancing tartar, plaque and gingivitis until the periodontal membrane is breached, allowing disease to move into the alveolus (tooth root socket) causing tooth root infection which must be dealt with by either doing a root canal or extracting the tooth.  In most cases, the tooth is removed to stop the infection of the root.

About 75% of all dental problems serious enough to be seen by a veterinarian, are the result of periodontal disease.  It is the cause of 95% of all cases of “bad breath.”  In advanced cases, it results in infected, foul-smelling, loosened teeth; with a massive, unsightly accumulation of tartar, plaque, or gingivitis.  If the condition is severe enough, there may be a loss of appetite due to painful, infected gums known as pyorrhea.

 

Pyorrhea and periodontal disease allows bacteria to constantly grow in the infected soft tissues of the mouth. These bacteria may enter the bloodstream and cause such problems as: heart valve infections and (kidney infections, called nephritis.)

Most of these conditions could have been avoided by brushing your pet’s teeth from a very young age.  To brush your pet’s teeth start by gently holding the mouth closed and use your finger as a toothbrush, rubbing the upper gum, the upper tooth, and the lower tooth. Proceed gently so the pet gets used to something foreign in its mouth.

 

When your pet is comfortable with your finger,  add a dentifrice to your finger and repeat the same process until your pet is used to it.  When you think it’s time to add a toothbrush, I prefer one called the children’s reach toothbrush.  It is about the size of one’s finger and has a gentle curve which follows the natural curve of your pet’s gum line.  Hold the pet’s mouth gently closed.  Apply a good tasting dentifrice to the bristles and brush in a back-and-forth direction, not up-and-down like humans.  From your experience rubbing your pet’s gums, you already know what course the toothbrush should follow to cause the least amount of discomfort while brushing.  Once your pet has mastered this first skill, loosen your hand to let the mouth open slightly not allowing chewing. Holding the jaw still, now you can brush the upper gum, the upper tooth, the lower tooth and the lower gum.

 

If you can accomplish this with no problems you may be able to relax your hand and have the mouth stay open, not chewing.  Try to flip the toothbrush into the inside teeth and brush the inside teeth with the brush.  If you can accomplish this, your pet will always have clean teeth.

 

 

Follow these tips for good oral hygiene:

 

Here are some other tips which might help your pet’s teeth stay clean.  In the event you are not able to be successful or completely successful at brushing, feed at least some hard food, which will provide a cleaning action.  Prescription Dental Diets are available for both dogs and cats and can be used as a total balanced diet or as treats that can be given every day.  Friskies now has an adult cat food available at the grocery store to help keep teeth clean.

 

Have teeth examined at least once every year for the presence of plaque, tartar and gingivitis.  These conditions must be addressed to allow our pets to keep healthy teeth.

Use a pet dentifrice (toothpaste) on a regular basis while brushing your pet’s teeth. Just ask and we can help you find a dentifrice for your pet. We would also be happy to show you several techniques you can use to brush your pet’s teeth.  Human toothpaste should not be used since it can be toxic if swallowed by animals.

These recommendations can go a long way toward extending the life of your pet and make it more enjoyable, odor and pain free.

 If you have any questions about caring  for your pets teeth or need to contact us, give us a call at  Capuchino Veterinary Clinic (650) 583-1500

Scooting

“SCOOTING”

A SPECIAL REPORT

 

 

Scooting is a term used to describe when an animal sits up on its tail, anal area or vulvar region and uses its forelegs to push this area along on the ground, wiping, scraping or rubbing the irritated tissue.

There are many reasons why the tissues of these areas become irritated enough that an animal would feel the need to scrape, scratch or rub the specific tissue it is scooting on;

1)   The tail.

a)   Depending on the breed of dog, the underside of the tail can be prone to inflammation and itchiness caused by allergies to food or pollen.

b)   In dogs with ‘flea allergy dermatitis’ the underside of the tail along with the top of the tail, the top of the rump and the inner and outer thighs become inflamed and itchy in response to the bite of the flea.

c)   Dogs and cats that have an infection of the scenting sacs found on each side of the anal opening may develop a very sore wet infection under the base of the tail. If that area is the closest the tongue can reach when trying to lick the anal opening it will develop a wet inflamed rash from the constant licking.

d)   Certain breeds of dogs such as the Bulldog and Pug amongst others can have an inherited problem where the tail which normally develops in a loose corkscrew pattern open to the air, instead develops so tightly that there is a constantly developing bacterial and yeast infection burning and itching in the tight folds.

2)   The Anal Area

a)   Both the dog and cat can be prone to an anal sac

    infection in one or both sacs located on either side of

    the anal opening. Each sac normally produces

    a scenting material of tooth paste consistency

    whichis squeezed onto the feces as it is pushed out

    of the anus. When infected, the consistency of the

                 toothpaste material becomes watery. In this diluted state

                 the material causes burning and itching as it leaks

   from the infected sac.

b) The effect of a food or pollen allergy on that area

    causes inflammation and heat. Heat liquefies the

    secretion into a hot watery bacterial laden liquid

    which drains out of the anal sac opening causing

                  irritation and burning of the tender anal tissue.

c) An anal sac opening can become plugged but continues

    to make and fill with anal sac material. Dogs and cats

    scoot on this area to try and relieve the obstruction.

 d) Parasites such as a long ten to twelve inch tapeworm

     can live in the intestinal track of dogs and cats. Each

                  worm is made up of twenty or so individually

                  connected segmental pieces which though connected

                 together can separate and individually crawl out of the

                 anal opening,aggravating the anal tissue.

e) If a dog or cat has an unformed stool that sticks

    to the anus, it may scoot to try to clean the

                 feces off the area.

             f) If a dog or cat has a bowel movement which contains

                 foreign material such as grass or fur and the

                 grass or fur does not come out completely but stays

                 partially in the anal rectal canal, scooting is a way to

                 try to move the foreign material out of the canal.

              g) There are medical conditions such as “Peri Anal

                 Fistulas” where infected ulcerated holes are present

                 in the anal tissue causing burning  and itching.

             h) The auto immune (body attacks itself) disease,

                  ‘Pemphigus Vulgaris’ forms ulcers all over the anal

                   tissue. As with peri anal fistulas, the burning and

                   itching are intense.

3)   The Peri Vulvar area;

a)   The area around the vulva of the female dog and cat

is anatomically built so that there is a large air space

between the vulva and the skin that surrounds it. When

the air pocket is eliminated, usually because of redundant fatty folds in an over weight dog or cat, the

vulva becomes tucked in the folds of skin, collecting

urine which cannot dry out after urination and stagnates. Bacteria and yeast proliferate in this warm, dark area and the tissue begins to itch and burn.

b)   Some dogs and cats are born with an under developed

vulva which results in the same accumulation of stagnant urine. Bacteria and yeast living in that area

begin to proliferate causing a burning and itching infection.

4)   Vaginal and uterine secretions.

a)   Except during a dog or cat’s breeding time, there is

never suppose to be a large flow of secretion from the vagina or uterus. During the breeding time of the female breeding cycle it is common for there to be a bloody discharge for up to six days followed by a clear discharge for another seven days. If a dog or cat is giving birth there will be an assortment of colored discharges starting with a clear watery discharge when the female’s water breaks. After the delivery of each pup or kitten a green and sometimes bloody discharge is normally seen. This colored discharge may continue to drain from the vagina and vulva for up to six weeks after the birth of the puppies or kittens.

b)   Any other time, discharges are not normally seen. If the

dog or cat develops  inflammation with or without bacteria in the uterus or vagina there will be a continuous flow of abnormal fluid out of the vulva. This abnormal wet secretion will cause an irritation around the vulva which will burn and become itchy.

5)   Urinary Incontinence.

a)   For many various reasons urine may be found leaking

from the bladder involuntarily and found puddling

around the vulva. The wet urine causes urine scalding

or burning of the skin which becomes very itchy.

b)   Bladder infections, Kidney infections and diseases that

cause excess intake of water such as Kidney failure,

Diabetes Mellitus (Sugar diabetes), Diabetes Insipitis,

Diabetic Nephropathy, Hypercalcemia to name a few can all cause leaking of urine with urine scald.

Any of the reasons listed above can eventually cause inflammation and infection of the skin of the backside of a dog or cat. Beside biting, licking or chewing the involved area, the most common way to relieve the burning and itching is by rubbing, or scraping the irritated tissue by ‘scooting on it.’

Scooting is an important sign you shouldn’t ignore. The sooner we diagnose the problem, the sooner your pet will get the relief it needs.

To make an appointment with Dr. Brooks-Korn,

Please call 650-538-1500.

A Dog’s Plea

 

 

 

 

 

We feel that the following, although it is called “A Dog’s Plea,” can be used to describe any revered pet that has become a member of the family and is truly loved as such. We hope that it will mean as much to you as it does to us.

 

 

 

A DOG’S PLEA

Treat me kindly, my beloved friend, for no heart in the entire world is more grateful for kindness than the loving heart of me.

 

Do not break my spirit with a stick, for though I should lick your hand between blows, your patience and understanding will more quickly teach me things you would have me learn.

 

Speak to me often, for your voice is the world’s sweetest music, as you must know by the fierce wagging of my tail when your footstep falls upon my waiting ear.

 

Please take me inside when it is cold and wet, for I am a domesticated animal, no longer accustomed to bitter elements.  I ask no greater glory than the privilege of sitting at your feet beside the hearth.

 

Keep my pan filled with fresh water, for I cannot tell you when I thirst.

 

Feed me clean food that I may stay well, to romp and play and do your bidding, to walk by your side, and stand ready, willing and able to protect you with my life, should your life be in danger.

 

And, my friend, when I am very old, and I no longer enjoy good health, hearing and sight, do not make heroic efforts to keep me going.  I am not having any fun. Please see that my trusting life is taken gently. I shall leave this earth knowing with the last breath I draw that my fate was always safest in your hands.

 

Author Unknown