PET SAFETY AT HOME

 

 

 

 

Summer is winding down, schools are back in session and the fall season is quickly approaching. The security and safety of our pets at home is very important as they are likely to be spending more time indoors with us as the heat of summer turns into crisp autumn air.

 

Cats, dogs, kittens and puppies are lively and curious, which can get them into serious trouble.  Remember that your pet sees everything from a much lower vantage point than you—like a baby who has begun to crawl—and may be attracted to things you do not see while standing up.

It’s impossible to totally “pet-proof” your home against accidents, but here are some recommendations:

 

• Securely screen all windows to help prevent falls, and keep your pet off of balconies, upper porches, and high decks.

 

• Keep trash cans covered or inside a latched cabinet.

• Securely store cleaning supplies, laundry detergent, bleach, paint, paint thinner, pesticides, fertilizer, disinfectant, mothballs, roach & rat poisons, medications, and antifreeze. Make sure you keep these in tightly closed areas to which your pet cannot gain access. Keep all cabinet doors closed securely. Child-proof latches are helpful to ensure that little paws won’t pry them open.

 

• Clean all antifreeze from driveway and garage floor as one taste can be lethal to animals.

 

• Remove poisonous house- plants, or place them in hanging baskets completely out of reach of all pets. Some plants that are poisonous include amaryllis, English ivy, narcissus, dieffenbachia, mistletoe, poinsettia, holly, philodendron, azalea, rhododendron, daffodil daphne, foxglove, bleeding heart, potato, iris, ivy, oleander, rubber plant, tobacco, tulip, clematis, morning glory, and weeping fig. Please make sure any hanging plants can not be jumped on from nearby surfaces, as kittens are quite agile.

• Keep toilet lids down. Young pets may decide to play in the water, and the lid could close and trap them, causing them to drown. Toilet bowl cleansers are harmful if swallowed.

 

• Some foods that are toxic to dogs are: alcohol, avocados, raisins, currants, cooked bones, (causes stomach lacerations), walnuts, macadamia nuts, onions, garlic, grapes (can cause kidney failure), fatty foods, chocolate, xylitol, caffeine, some varieties of mushrooms, dairy products (too much, can cause diarrhea). If you suspect that your pet has ingested any of these items, call the National Pet Poison helpline at 1-800-213-6680 or get them to the veterinarian ASAP.

 

• Keep all foods out of reach. Even if the food isn’t harmful, the wrapper could be.

 

• Store plastic bags where the young pet cannot get inside them and suffocate or chew/tear them and swallow bits of plastic. Wire twist ties should be out of reach as well. Plastic six-pack holders used for packaging beverages should be cut apart and discarded immediately.

 

• Put away children’s toys and games, as animals could choke on small parts.

 

• Keep exposed electrical cords as short as possible, or tack them against a baseboard so the pet cannot play with or chew on them.

 

• Check for and block any small spaces, hooks or holes inside cabinets, or behind washer/dryer units. Close crawl spaces securely.

 

• Never give your pet any medication without first consulting with your veterinarian. Never use over-the-counter products on pets without first checking with your veterinarian. Veterinarians are the true pet experts. Guard against potential exposure to human medications. Even in small doses, aspirin, acetaminophen, diet pills, sleeping pills, and tranquilizers can all be fatal to your pet.

 

• Keep all dresser drawers, trunks, and closets closed. Always check to see where the pet is before closing refrigerator doors, the oven, washer, dryer or garage door.

• Keep laundry and shoes behind closed doors. (Drawstrings and buttons can cause major problems if swallowed)

 

• Always be sure your pet is secure before leaving them home alone. We strongly recommend the pet be confined in a plastic travel crate for at least the first few months. 
  

 

• If the pet is allowed outdoors, always be sure to sound your horn and knock on the hood before starting and moving your vehicle. Kittens especially like to crawl up under the hood to keep warm.

 

• Keep sewing supplies out of your pet’s reach. Buttons, needles, pins, and thread can hurt its mouth or cause intestinal obstructions if swallowed. The same goes for nails, staples, screws, brads, earplugs, and aluminum can tabs.

 

• Do not use electric blankets for the pet’s bedding.

 

• Never put anything other than the appropriate collar around a pet’s neck. Ribbons can easily choke the pet if they should get caught on anything.

 

• Always look out for paws, noses and tails when you shut doors and scoot chairs.

 

Always leash your pet before leaving the house, then when you come home take it off in same place. The consistency gives them the signal that it is time to go out or return.

 

Following these simple tips can keep your pets safe and healthy for years to come. It will give you peace of mind to know you’re doing what you can to protect them while they are at home. Kindly share this information with other pet owners and friends. We are a veterinary clinic located in Millbrae, California.

Enjoy your Labor Day Weekend as we close out the summer.  Look for our next blog in September.

 

 

Capuchino Veterinary Clinic

(650) 583-1500

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Sink or Swim

Pet Water Safety

 

Pets enjoy playing and swimming when it’s hot outside. It keeps their coats and body temperature regulated correctly. When spending time outdoors, it’s essential to keep your pet safe and cool in order to avoid dangerous things like heat stroke, poisoning and others as a result. Safety is important when it comes to swimming and playing around water. Here are some things pet owners need to know in order to keep everyone safe.

 

Water Safety

For pools and freshwater

• Some dogs and surprisingly cats enjoy swimming. Others cannot swim, while others just avoid the water. Be conscious of your pet’s preferences and skills before immersing them in water. Never force a pet to do something they would not do themselves.

• If they are swimming for the first time, start in shallow water, coax them in by calling their name. Encourage with toys, treats, or let them follow another experienced pet they are friendly with.

• Never throw your pet into the water.

• Watch carefully the first time that your pet begins to paddle with their front legs, be ready to lift their hind legs as a guide to help them float. The process should happen quickly, if not, don’t force it. Do not stress the animal. Try again another time.

• They will overdo it, swimming is very hard work and they may tire easily. Limit their time swimming.

• If you have your own pool, make sure your pet knows where the stairs or ladder are located. Be sure that pool covers are firmly in place; pets have been known to slip in under openings in the covers and drown.

• Supervise all pets in or around water—not all are good swimmers.

• Heat and open water can cause sunburn and heat stroke in a matter of minutes with some pets. Keep them off hot sand or buy socks for their paws. The hot sand can blister pads and paws.

• Buy your pet a life jacket—then use it. Just like people, it’s easy for your pet to develop a cramp in their leg, become exhausted too far from shore, or in rivers, get overwhelmed by surging swells

 

• When swimming in Freshwater you need to make sure your pet does not drink it. Please provide drinking water that is easily accessible.
• Try to keep your pet from drinking pool water, which contains chlorine and other chemicals that can easily cause a bellyache. Water from standing water, lakes, ponds and rivers should also be avoided as it often contains nasty parasites that cause vomiting, diarrhea and other health issues.
• Be careful with the water you allow your pet to drink. Don’t give them water you wouldn’t drink yourself.

 

Beach Tips

For Saltwater Swimming

• Provide a shady rest spot with plenty of fresh water for your pet.
• Dogs and cats, especially those with short hair, white fur, and pink skin, will sunburn quickly. Limit exposure during the day and apply sun block to their ears and nose 30 minutes before going outside. Childrens spray on sun block can be applied with a cotton ball. The fairer the skin (pink) the more frequent you need to apply.

• Check with a lifeguard for daily water conditions. Look yourself carefully to understand the land and seascape.

• Dogs are easy targets for sea lice and jellyfish.

• Ocean swimming: be careful of waves crashing on top of a pet, the strong tides or rip currents below the surface that may pull them under or in.

•  Playing on the sand is strenuous exercise. A pet that is out of shape can easily pull a tendon or ligament, so keep an eye on all activity.

• Not all beaches permit pets; check local ordinances before heading out. Leashes are generally in order.

 Salt and other minerals in ocean water will damage and dry a pets coat. After a day swimming in salt water, or in the pool with chlorine, you will want to bathe your pet.

 

Easy steps to Shampoo Your Pet:

1.  Your pet’s skin is quite different from human skin. It is thinner, has no sweat glands, and has a different PH.  Therefore most human shampoos are not satisfactory.  Neither are many over-the-counter pet shampoo products, especially if your pet has any type of skin abnormality, disease, or flea repellant topically on the skin.

 2. Bathe your pet whenever they are dirty or smell bad.  We recommend bathing your pet at the frequency necessary to keep its skin clean to prevent drying of the skin or removing topical flea products. You should use a soapless detergentless shampoo if possible.

 3.  BRUSH and COMB out mats BEFORE the bath.

 4.  Push 1 piece of cotton in the ears, only if dental floss is tied tightly around the cotton leaving enough to fall outside the ears to pull each piece out with.

 5. Lubricate the eyes with mineral oil, castor oil, Vaseline, or eye ointment to prevent burning or irritating the eyes with the soap or dipping solution.

 6. WET THOROUGHLY before applying soap. Use lukewarm water for your pets comfort. Use COOL water if the pet is “itchy.” Always start from the head and work towards the back to keep fleas from running into the ears, eyes or nose.

 7.  THOROUGHLY LATHER. ADD MORE WATER (INSTEAD OF SOAP) TO INCREASE THE LATHER.

 8.  Allow the soap lather to stand on the pet’s body according to the directions on the shampoo.

 9. Use a sponge or wash cloth to wash the face. Using the fingers is better than any brush for  lathering and scrubbing massaging the skin! 

10. RINSE THOROUGHLY to prevent skin irritation, again starting from the head and working    towards the back. 

11.  Repeat the soap procedure if the pet is extremely dirty or continues to smell.

12.. Squeeze hair to remove excess water before applying any dip solution towel or blow dry.

If your pet is cold or shakes cover then with a towel and take to warm place.

Your pet may be sensitive to wet conditions. Please take care to honor those sensitivities as much as possible. A healthy pet is a happy member of the family.

 

Thank you for reading our pet care blog. We enjoy your feedback. If there are subjects you would like to see covered in future issues, please message them to us. We will honor requests according to the editorial calendar for this blog. The frequency has changed to a monthly publication. Look for our next issue in August.

Capuchino Veterinary Clinic

(650) 583-1500

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HELP! MY PET GOT SKUNKED!!!

 

HELP! MY PET JUST GOT SKUNKED, WHAT DO I DO???

 

When your pet comes face to backside with an annoyed skunk the outcome is usually very smelly but can also be a real emergency for your pet.

 

You’re first clue that a pet vs skunk squabble has taken place is when your pet comes running into the house rubbing its body on every piece of furniture you own. If skunk confrontations are a common occurrence where you live, you should keep your skunk cleaning supplies outside in a place that can be reached with one hand as the other hand is usually dragging you pet as far away from the house as possible. If you know this situation occurs commonly in your area, you should call the manufacturer of your furniture and find out how to deal with skunk odor on each piece before you have to deal with the problem.

 

Keep all the necessary supplies for removing the skunk odor in the pail you will use to mix the ingredients. Leave the pail in a location where everyone knows to look. There is nothing worse then trying to drive your smelly self in what use to be your clean car to an all night market or pharmacy and pick up supplies while every one stares at you holding their noses.

 

Your kit should contain a leash to tether your pet to the area you will do the cleaning. This area should have access to water and an overhead light so you can assess the situation and see your pet as you do the cleaning. It’s nice if you have an attachment called a ‘hose bib’ that screws onto your sink faucet which will allow a garden hose to screw onto it. This allows the bathing outdoors to be done with warm, not freezing cold water.

 

You will need the following supplies and a clean bucket to mix the ingredients. 3 bottles of Hydrogen Peroxide, 1/4 cup of baking soda, 1 teaspoon of dish washing liquid and up to a gallon of clean water, depending on the size of the pet you are washing. It is easier if you pre mix the solution so that you can move directly onto bathing rather then having to stop to mix the solution. Keep the mixing directions sealed in a plastic baggie taped to the bucket for easy reading.

 

Next, put on your two piece raincoat including a hood, which will protect you as your pet shakes the cleaning mixture all over you. Remember to complete the outfit with eye protection and a pair of Playtex gloves. You will have as much trouble getting the skunk smell off of your skin as you will off of your pet’s fur.

 

Examine your pet starting with the eyes. If they were hit directly it is imperative to flush both eyes with copious amounts of neutral temperature water. I find that cupping my hand under each eye and letting the water flow from the hose down my hand and indirectly into the eyes doesn’t frighten the pet as much as directly squirting the water into the eyes.

 

 

You will know the eyes have been rinsed well enough when the pawing at them stops and the spasm caused by the burning of the skunk spray stops so the eyes stay open. Be patient and thorough as this may take a long time to accomplish. At this point apply a large amount of sterile eye ointment (available from your veterinarian) or use Vaseline or KY jelly to protect the eyes from the cleaning solution you will have to wash the rest of the head with.

 

Next, carefully sponge the mixture over the entire face, except for the eyes. If the mixture gets into the eyes, rinse the eyes as discussed before and reapply the protective ointment. Pour, sponge or brush if necessary copious amounts of the mixture over the body and down the legs, repeating the process until the entire odor is gone.

 

As an aside, over the last thirty years I have probably tried every store bought and home made remedy to deal with skunk odor. Only the preceding recipe has reliably worked to remove skunk spray every time.

 

As an aside, don’t waste your time trying to make an appointment with a grooming parlor or trying to make an appointment with our clinic for doing the bathing. Most grooming parlors won’ t bathe your pet because the odor is so strong it will permeate where ever you take it. All any one will smell the whole day is skunk, and that includes the clean, groomed pets who will also go home smelling like a skunk.

 

You might call grooming parlors in advance and see if any will wash skunked animals. It’s worth a try because dealing with a skunked pet is no picnic.

 

You may have a medical emergency if skunk spray goes directly into the eyes and after flushing the eyes with copious amounts of neutral temperature water the squinting won’t stops. If it doesn’t, call us immediately to bring your pet in for an exam. Do not however bring your pet into the clinic. We will examine your pet’s eyes in the isolation area of the clinic to minimize the contamination of the clinic by skunk odor.

 

If you have all the supplies but need help with the directions, call our office and our technicians will help you through process.      (650) 583-1500

 

Have a clothes pin around for your nose and lots of strong scenting or deodorizing patches, candles or plug ins around. It won’t make much difference to a newcomer entering your house, but it will make a difference to you.

CANINE SENIOR PET INFORMATION

CANINE SENIOR PET INFORMATION

 

 

Most pet owners fail to realize that pet’s age more rapidly than humans, and the gradual onset of old age problems in a previously healthy pet may be both unexpected and distressing. The object of health care of older pets is to make them feel better and have the longest productive, useful life possible. We cannot cure them–there is no cure for old age.

 

As our pets age, stress upon vital internal organs is likely to become more serious. Vitamin requirements generally increase, and nutritional needs differ greatly from those of younger animals. Sources of chronic infection, such as tooth and gum disease, can adversely affect internal organs and contribute to failing health.

 

Aging also increases the risk of arthritis, disc disease, and other skeletal problems. Many of these problems are readily detectable and can be controlled if diagnosed early and treated properly.

 

 

MAJOR HEALTH RECOMMENDATIONS FOR DOGS OVER 6 YEARS OF AGE INCLUDE:

 

•    Annual Physical Examinations are the cornerstone of early disease diagnosis.

 

•    Annual Vaccinations For: Distemper, Hepatitis, Lepto, Parvovirus, Coronavirus, Rabies, and Bordetella.

 

•      Fecal Examination every six months for internal parasites is recommended.

 

•     Give Heartworm Preventive all year long and have BLOOD CHECKED once each year for Heartworms.

 

♦   Complete Geriatric Health Evaluations should be started at 6-8 years of age consisting of:

 

•    Complete Blood Count

 

•     Blood Chemistry Profiles for liver and kidney function

 

•     Urinalysis for early signs of diabetes and kidney degeneration

 

•     Check Teeth for need of Dental Hygiene every six (6) months:

 

•      Tartar on teeth leads to kidney and heart valve infections.  Keeping teeth clean can add 2 years to the pet’s life. Tartar also works up between the tooth and gum causing the tooth to loosen. Treat teeth and gums with our recommended pet dentifrice DAILY!

•     Spay or Neuter (at an early age)

 

•     Encourage exercise.

 

•      Feed a HIGH QUALITY balanced diet.  Prevent Obesity:  Cheap foods utilize cheap sources of protein which damage liver and kidneys.

 

•    Wet food to increase water consumption.

•     Premium foods are worth the extra cost.

 

•      Special diets can be used to promote better health after (early) indications of kidney or liver damage

 

•      Restrict salt as much as practical.

 

•      Vitamin and Trace Mineral Supplements

 

   Older dogs require four times as much:

 

•      Thiamine, Choline, and Zinc. Zinc is very important for muscle function and hair coat. Even though

Commercial foods contain Zinc; the Zinc is often not absorbed because of high calcium levels, which impair

Zinc absorption.

 

•      Routine shampooing for proper skin and hair coat care.

Dental Hygiene for Dogs and Cats

 

 

DENTAL HYGIENE

 

First the good news:

 

Cats & Dogs seldom develop tooth decay and form cavities, as do humans. However, the dog and cat are not without  major dental problems!  They may be born without a full set of baby or adult teeth.  They also may be born with a condition called malocclusion, where the upper jaw (maxilla) and lower jaw (mandible) do not align in a perfect scissors bite as is normal.  They may develop what is called an overbite, where the maxilla sits much farther forward than the mandible. They may develop the opposite or under bite,  where the mandible protrudes much farther forward than the maxilla.

 

Another condition may be seen called retained deciduous or baby teeth.  In this condition the baby tooth is not pushed out by the adult tooth and thus both the adult and baby tooth try to exist in the same space at the same time, causing one of the teeth to be displaced.

 

Your pet may acquire dental problems where plaque and tartar build up on the teeth and gingivitis forms on gums.  The first step in the downfall of the tooth is the formation of plaque.  Food material, bacteria, and saliva accumulate and adhere to the tooth surface, forming a soft substance called “Plaque.”

 

“If the buildup of plaque is allowed to continue, it hardens from its mineral content and forms a hard “chalk-like” material known as tartar.  The tartar buildup eventually causes erosion of the gums along with inflammation and subsequently invades the periodontal membrane.  At this point the destruction of the tooth is almost complete.

 

This stage of dental disease affects the periodontal membrane and is the result of advancing tartar, plaque and gingivitis until the periodontal membrane is breached, allowing disease to move into the alveolus (tooth root socket) causing tooth root infection which must be dealt with by either doing a root canal or extracting the tooth.  In most cases, the tooth is removed to stop the infection of the root.

About 75% of all dental problems serious enough to be seen by a veterinarian, are the result of periodontal disease.  It is the cause of 95% of all cases of “bad breath.”  In advanced cases, it results in infected, foul-smelling, loosened teeth; with a massive, unsightly accumulation of tartar, plaque, or gingivitis.  If the condition is severe enough, there may be a loss of appetite due to painful, infected gums known as pyorrhea.

 

Pyorrhea and periodontal disease allows bacteria to constantly grow in the infected soft tissues of the mouth. These bacteria may enter the bloodstream and cause such problems as: heart valve infections and (kidney infections, called nephritis.)

Most of these conditions could have been avoided by brushing your pet’s teeth from a very young age.  To brush your pet’s teeth start by gently holding the mouth closed and use your finger as a toothbrush, rubbing the upper gum, the upper tooth, and the lower tooth. Proceed gently so the pet gets used to something foreign in its mouth.

 

When your pet is comfortable with your finger,  add a dentifrice to your finger and repeat the same process until your pet is used to it.  When you think it’s time to add a toothbrush, I prefer one called the children’s reach toothbrush.  It is about the size of one’s finger and has a gentle curve which follows the natural curve of your pet’s gum line.  Hold the pet’s mouth gently closed.  Apply a good tasting dentifrice to the bristles and brush in a back-and-forth direction, not up-and-down like humans.  From your experience rubbing your pet’s gums, you already know what course the toothbrush should follow to cause the least amount of discomfort while brushing.  Once your pet has mastered this first skill, loosen your hand to let the mouth open slightly not allowing chewing. Holding the jaw still, now you can brush the upper gum, the upper tooth, the lower tooth and the lower gum.

 

If you can accomplish this with no problems you may be able to relax your hand and have the mouth stay open, not chewing.  Try to flip the toothbrush into the inside teeth and brush the inside teeth with the brush.  If you can accomplish this, your pet will always have clean teeth.

 

 

Follow these tips for good oral hygiene:

 

Here are some other tips which might help your pet’s teeth stay clean.  In the event you are not able to be successful or completely successful at brushing, feed at least some hard food, which will provide a cleaning action.  Prescription Dental Diets are available for both dogs and cats and can be used as a total balanced diet or as treats that can be given every day.  Friskies now has an adult cat food available at the grocery store to help keep teeth clean.

 

Have teeth examined at least once every year for the presence of plaque, tartar and gingivitis.  These conditions must be addressed to allow our pets to keep healthy teeth.

Use a pet dentifrice (toothpaste) on a regular basis while brushing your pet’s teeth. Just ask and we can help you find a dentifrice for your pet. We would also be happy to show you several techniques you can use to brush your pet’s teeth.  Human toothpaste should not be used since it can be toxic if swallowed by animals.

These recommendations can go a long way toward extending the life of your pet and make it more enjoyable, odor and pain free.

 If you have any questions about caring  for your pets teeth or need to contact us, give us a call at  Capuchino Veterinary Clinic (650) 583-1500