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On The Road Again……

 

This weeks blog is focusing on something most of us do over the summer…traveling with our pets. This checklist will help you have an enjoyable vacation when traveling with your pet this summer.

 

•  Secure your pet in the car. This will help your own peace of mind, to prevent injury from sudden movement, stops, or accidents. Using a leash, harness, or booster seat (for smaller dogs) in an automobile ensures a stable, secure, safe ride to your destination.

 

• Another alternative is to “crate train” your pet. This is the best choice for cats. Chances are that your pet is already crate trained. If not, it is a good idea to leave the crate out for a few weeks prior to your trip with a blanket with your pets scent in it. They will get used to having it around without anxiety or fear. This way they can go in at their leisure and realize it is a safe place, not a scary one. The crate actually becomes security to your pet. Keep the pet crated when the vehicle is moving for security and safety. The crate will help protect the pet in case of an accident.

 

• Be sure the pet wears a collar, with current Rabies Tag, and ID Tag with current contact (cell number since you are traveling) information on it, in case it should become lost. Updated microchips are advised as well.

 

• Take the usual food. Sudden diet changes are the most common causes of vomiting and diarrhea.

 

 

• Never assume you will be able to find special diets away from home carry ample amounts. Stick to a routine feeding schedule.

 

• A large supply of drinking water should also be considered to allow gradual change. Simply take a gallon jug, add new water to the jug as the home water is used out of the container. It is always a good idea to have extra unopened full jugs just in case you run into car problems, it gets hotter than forecasted or the first jug gets spilled. Things happen, and it is always good to be prepared.

 

• Don’t forget to bring any prescribed medications required by your pet, and a cooler with an ice pack in it for any medications that need to remain refrigerated until you get to your destination. Then refrigerate promptly. A basic first-aid kit is good to carry with you as well.

 

• Take the pet’s vaccinations records and rabies certificate. Many motels and campgrounds are now requiring proof of vaccinations.

 

• When driving, stop every two (2) hours to exercise the pet and give water, more frequently if the dog or cat is panting or it is a warm day. If the pet is ancy or unsettled, it may be trying to tell you it has to stop and go do its “business”. It is also a good idea for the human driver and passengers to get out and take a stretch break.

• Tranquilizers and carsickness medications are available from our office. They work best if given on an empty stomach. Do not feed the pet for 4-6 hours prior to administering the medication.  We usually recommend only feeding the pet once you reach each day’s destination each day for best effect. Over-the- counter products will not work.

 

• Please be responsible for your pet’s eliminations. Take it to suitable places for urination. Carry a supply of plastic bags which can be placed on the hand-then turned inside out after the stool is grasped in your hand, tie it up and toss in garbage can.

 

• Never leave your pet unattended in the car. We cannot emphasize this enough.  This applies to long and short trips during the summer. Hot cars kill dogs and cats in a very short period of time.

 

• Consider the feelings of others before taking your pet to visit friends or relatives. Secure your pet on a leash, for safety, to avoid loss, and consideration of everyone. Be sure they have no allergy problems and really do not mind the pet accompanying you. Otherwise, everyone will have a better time (including your pet) if the pet is left with friends, relatives, neighbors, or in our care.  Ask to see our boarding facilities. Have a safe and fabulous trip!

 

Ticks and Lyme disease

 

 

Welcome to this weeks topic “Ticks and Lyme Disease”.  We are focusing on what to do, should you find one on your pet. It is Spring and we are all more active, hiking, going to parks and spending more time outdoors. Here are some tips to keep your pets and family safe all season long.

Lyme disease is caused by a parasite, Borrelia Burgdorferi, which is transmitted by the bite of a tick to puppies, dogs, kittens, cats, horses, cattle and Humans.

 

There are many types and sizes of ticks which can be responsible for transmitting Lyme disease. The one characteristic they all share in common is a hard shell. Without training there is no sure way to know whether the tick you find on your pet or your self is the hard shelled type that caries Lyme disease.

Until proven otherwise assume that any tick might carry Lyme disease. Never touch the tick with bare hands as its contents can contaminate an open wound and pass the disease into you.

 

If you find a tick or ticks on your pet you can purchase a tick removing kit to aid in their removal. The important thing to remember is that you must remove the entire body including the head and mouth parts. Leaving any of the tick embedded in the skin will act like a splinter foreign body. Any foreign body left in your skin (and especially a tick) can cause irritation until it is removed.

 

If you don’t have a safe way to remove a tick, there are many effective products you can purchase which will kill ticks shortly after application. There are  liquid products that are applied onto your pet’s back. There are traditional plastic collard that are fastened around the neck. It is impregnated with a powdered tick killing medication that  is designed to shed off the collar and spread over the entire body within twenty four hours, killing ticks that come into contact with it.

 

It takes at least eighteen hours before the Lyme disease parasite is transmitted from the embedded tick. Act quickly and purchase a tick removing tool or tick killing product and you can prevent Lyme disease from infecting you or your pet.

 

When applying tick killing drops onto your pet, the goal is for the product to contact only the skin. Drops that stay on the fur cannot spread and therefore decreases the effectiveness or the duration of the product. For the most effective results part your pet’s fur and apply the drops only onto the skin. Use as many spots as necessary to apply the products only onto the skin.

 

If you find a tick burrowed into you, it is very tempting to rip it out, and smash it into a million pieces. Don’t Do This!  Remove the tick by twisting its body clockwise or counterclockwise. Protect the hand touching the tick by wearing a rubber or latex glove. You can cover your hand with a plastic bag if a glove is not available. After two or three turns the tick should release its grip and allow itself to be pulled out.

 

Check to be sure the head came out with the tick. Put the tick into a plastic bag and take it to the nearest Department of Public Health. They will be able to identify the type of tick that bit you and confirm that it is a type that carries Lyme disease. If it is the type that carries Lyme disease, they can grow the organism from the tick and see if it is infected. If it is, your doctor can prescribe antibiotics that can kill the Lyme disease organism.

 

If you are camping and will not be able to take the tick to the Department of Public Health, immediately, put it into a plastic bag and keep it in your cooler. Doing this gives you a better chance that the tick will still be identifiable and the Lyme disease organism will still be alive to culture if it has infected the tick.

 

How do you know if your pet has been bitten by a tick carrying Lyme disease? It’s a two part process.  First you can determine if your pet has been bitten by a tick if you see the tick burrowed into its skin. Once removed, take the tick to the nearest public health laboratory. Your public health department lab is qualified to tell you if it is the correct type of tick which carries the Lyme disease organism. If it is, your public health lab can attempt to grow the organism and determine if it is present.

If your pet has not been protected by vaccination here are the symptoms you might observe:

1) Recurrent lameness in one or multiple joints due to arthritis caused by the organism. Affected joints may be swollen, warm and painful when touched

2) Fever

3) Reluctant to eat or drink

4) Lymph node swelling found in the node closest to the tick bite

5) Kidney disease, which can progress to kidney failure with symptoms of increased thirst and increased urination, vomiting, diarrhea, weight loss and fluid accumulation under the skin

6) Heart problems

 

There are tests available which can diagnose the presence of Lyme disease in your pet. Only one type of test can distinguish between real Lyme disease and vaccination against Lyme disease.

 

If your pet is infected with Lyme disease early in the course of the disease, there are antibiotics which can reduce but not completely remove the Lyme organism. The antibiotics will also greatly reduce the symptoms caused by the Lyme disease organism.

 

Several companies manufacture vaccinations which protect against Lyme disease. Statistics show that after two vaccinations the first year, 68% of the vaccinated pets were protected from becoming sick from Lyme disease if bit by an infected tick. The study also showed that another vaccination given on the one year anniversary of the first vaccination series  will protect your pet up to 92% from getting sick if bit by an infected tick..

 

If you want to schedule an appointment to have a tick removed, to discuss tick bite prevention or get your pet examined and vaccinated against Lyme disease,

 

Call Dr Brooks-Korn’s office to make an appointment

(650) 583-1500

 

The Dog (and Cat) Days of Summer

 

 

 

“The Dog (and Cat) Days of Summer”

 

It’s summertime, and the living isn’t always easy for our animal friends. Dogs & cats suffer from the same problems humans do, such as overheating, dehydration, and even sunburn. By taking some simple precautions, you can celebrate the season and keep your pets healthy and happy.

 

• A visit to the veterinarian for a spring or early summer check-up is a must: add to that a test for heartworms. Ask us for the best flea and tick controls for your individual pet.

• Never leave your pet alone in a vehicle, hyperthermia can be fatal quickly. Even with the windows open, a parked automobile can become a furnace in no time. Parking in the shade offers little protection, as the sun shifts during the day.

• Carry a gallon thermos filled with cold, fresh water when traveling with your pet.

• The right time for playtime is in the cool of the early morning or evening, but never after a meal or when the weather is hot & humid.

• Days at the beach are a no-no, unless you can guarantee a shaded spot and a supply of fresh water for your companion.  Salty dogs should be rinsed off after a dip in the ocean.

• Fireworks are no fun for pets, so please resist the urge to take them to Independence Day displays.  Instead, keep them safe from the noise in a quiet, sheltered area at home.

• Street smarts: When the temperature is very high, don’t let your dog stand on hot asphalt.  Its body can heat up quickly, and sensitive paw pads can burn. Keep walks during these times to a minimum.

• Be especially sensitive to old and overweight pets in hot weather. Keep pets with heart or lung diseases indoors in air conditioning as much as possible. This also applies to snub-nosed dogs, such as bulldogs, Pekingese, Boston terriers, Lhasa Apsos, & Shih Tzus.

• Provide fresh water and plenty of shade for pets kept outdoors.  A properly constructed doghouse serves best.  Bring your pet inside during the heat of the day to rest in a cool part of the house.

• Summer is the time when gardens, lawns, and trees are sprayed with insecticides, so avoid walking your dog in suspect areas. These chemicals can cause harm, even death.  If you suspect your pet has been poisoned, call your veterinarian immediately.

• Good grooming can stave off summer skin problems, especially for dogs with heavy coats.  Shaving the hair to a 1-inch length never down to the skin, which robs Rover of protection from the sun will prevent overheating.  Frequent brushing helps keep cats tangle-free.

• Don’t let them run wild!  Unsupervised, off-leash activity can lead to an animal contacting a fatal disease or injury. Pet theft can also be a problem.

• A tip for all seasons: if you must tether your dog outside, use a buckle collar with identification tags.
• Never use correction collars, which can cause choking.

• Make sure there are no open, unscreened windows or doors in your home, through which animals can fall or jump.

• Watch for coolant leaking from your car.  Its sweet taste attracts pets, and ingesting  just a little can be fatal.  To be safe, use animal-friendly products that use propylene glycol instead of ethylene glycol.

 

Be sure your pet wears an ID tag. Keep it up to date. It’s a fact: A lost pet without a pet ID tags seldom finds its way home.

If your pet Is exposed to high temperatures:   

• Look for signs of heat stress—heavy panting, glazed eyes, a rapid pulse, unsteadiness, a staggering gait, vomiting, or a deep red or purple tongue.

If your pet is overheated, move him to a cooler area and take your pet immediately to a veterinarian—it could save his life. Call ahead, if possible, to be sure your veterinarian is available.

Following these simple guidelines will ensure that you and your pet will enjoy the Summer.

Scooting

“SCOOTING”

A SPECIAL REPORT

 

 

Scooting is a term used to describe when an animal sits up on its tail, anal area or vulvar region and uses its forelegs to push this area along on the ground, wiping, scraping or rubbing the irritated tissue.

There are many reasons why the tissues of these areas become irritated enough that an animal would feel the need to scrape, scratch or rub the specific tissue it is scooting on;

1)   The tail.

a)   Depending on the breed of dog, the underside of the tail can be prone to inflammation and itchiness caused by allergies to food or pollen.

b)   In dogs with ‘flea allergy dermatitis’ the underside of the tail along with the top of the tail, the top of the rump and the inner and outer thighs become inflamed and itchy in response to the bite of the flea.

c)   Dogs and cats that have an infection of the scenting sacs found on each side of the anal opening may develop a very sore wet infection under the base of the tail. If that area is the closest the tongue can reach when trying to lick the anal opening it will develop a wet inflamed rash from the constant licking.

d)   Certain breeds of dogs such as the Bulldog and Pug amongst others can have an inherited problem where the tail which normally develops in a loose corkscrew pattern open to the air, instead develops so tightly that there is a constantly developing bacterial and yeast infection burning and itching in the tight folds.

2)   The Anal Area

a)   Both the dog and cat can be prone to an anal sac

    infection in one or both sacs located on either side of

    the anal opening. Each sac normally produces

    a scenting material of tooth paste consistency

    whichis squeezed onto the feces as it is pushed out

    of the anus. When infected, the consistency of the

                 toothpaste material becomes watery. In this diluted state

                 the material causes burning and itching as it leaks

   from the infected sac.

b) The effect of a food or pollen allergy on that area

    causes inflammation and heat. Heat liquefies the

    secretion into a hot watery bacterial laden liquid

    which drains out of the anal sac opening causing

                  irritation and burning of the tender anal tissue.

c) An anal sac opening can become plugged but continues

    to make and fill with anal sac material. Dogs and cats

    scoot on this area to try and relieve the obstruction.

 d) Parasites such as a long ten to twelve inch tapeworm

     can live in the intestinal track of dogs and cats. Each

                  worm is made up of twenty or so individually

                  connected segmental pieces which though connected

                 together can separate and individually crawl out of the

                 anal opening,aggravating the anal tissue.

e) If a dog or cat has an unformed stool that sticks

    to the anus, it may scoot to try to clean the

                 feces off the area.

             f) If a dog or cat has a bowel movement which contains

                 foreign material such as grass or fur and the

                 grass or fur does not come out completely but stays

                 partially in the anal rectal canal, scooting is a way to

                 try to move the foreign material out of the canal.

              g) There are medical conditions such as “Peri Anal

                 Fistulas” where infected ulcerated holes are present

                 in the anal tissue causing burning  and itching.

             h) The auto immune (body attacks itself) disease,

                  ‘Pemphigus Vulgaris’ forms ulcers all over the anal

                   tissue. As with peri anal fistulas, the burning and

                   itching are intense.

3)   The Peri Vulvar area;

a)   The area around the vulva of the female dog and cat

is anatomically built so that there is a large air space

between the vulva and the skin that surrounds it. When

the air pocket is eliminated, usually because of redundant fatty folds in an over weight dog or cat, the

vulva becomes tucked in the folds of skin, collecting

urine which cannot dry out after urination and stagnates. Bacteria and yeast proliferate in this warm, dark area and the tissue begins to itch and burn.

b)   Some dogs and cats are born with an under developed

vulva which results in the same accumulation of stagnant urine. Bacteria and yeast living in that area

begin to proliferate causing a burning and itching infection.

4)   Vaginal and uterine secretions.

a)   Except during a dog or cat’s breeding time, there is

never suppose to be a large flow of secretion from the vagina or uterus. During the breeding time of the female breeding cycle it is common for there to be a bloody discharge for up to six days followed by a clear discharge for another seven days. If a dog or cat is giving birth there will be an assortment of colored discharges starting with a clear watery discharge when the female’s water breaks. After the delivery of each pup or kitten a green and sometimes bloody discharge is normally seen. This colored discharge may continue to drain from the vagina and vulva for up to six weeks after the birth of the puppies or kittens.

b)   Any other time, discharges are not normally seen. If the

dog or cat develops  inflammation with or without bacteria in the uterus or vagina there will be a continuous flow of abnormal fluid out of the vulva. This abnormal wet secretion will cause an irritation around the vulva which will burn and become itchy.

5)   Urinary Incontinence.

a)   For many various reasons urine may be found leaking

from the bladder involuntarily and found puddling

around the vulva. The wet urine causes urine scalding

or burning of the skin which becomes very itchy.

b)   Bladder infections, Kidney infections and diseases that

cause excess intake of water such as Kidney failure,

Diabetes Mellitus (Sugar diabetes), Diabetes Insipitis,

Diabetic Nephropathy, Hypercalcemia to name a few can all cause leaking of urine with urine scald.

Any of the reasons listed above can eventually cause inflammation and infection of the skin of the backside of a dog or cat. Beside biting, licking or chewing the involved area, the most common way to relieve the burning and itching is by rubbing, or scraping the irritated tissue by ‘scooting on it.’

Scooting is an important sign you shouldn’t ignore. The sooner we diagnose the problem, the sooner your pet will get the relief it needs.

To make an appointment with Dr. Brooks-Korn,

Please call 650-538-1500.

A Dog’s Plea

 

 

 

 

 

We feel that the following, although it is called “A Dog’s Plea,” can be used to describe any revered pet that has become a member of the family and is truly loved as such. We hope that it will mean as much to you as it does to us.

 

 

 

A DOG’S PLEA

Treat me kindly, my beloved friend, for no heart in the entire world is more grateful for kindness than the loving heart of me.

 

Do not break my spirit with a stick, for though I should lick your hand between blows, your patience and understanding will more quickly teach me things you would have me learn.

 

Speak to me often, for your voice is the world’s sweetest music, as you must know by the fierce wagging of my tail when your footstep falls upon my waiting ear.

 

Please take me inside when it is cold and wet, for I am a domesticated animal, no longer accustomed to bitter elements.  I ask no greater glory than the privilege of sitting at your feet beside the hearth.

 

Keep my pan filled with fresh water, for I cannot tell you when I thirst.

 

Feed me clean food that I may stay well, to romp and play and do your bidding, to walk by your side, and stand ready, willing and able to protect you with my life, should your life be in danger.

 

And, my friend, when I am very old, and I no longer enjoy good health, hearing and sight, do not make heroic efforts to keep me going.  I am not having any fun. Please see that my trusting life is taken gently. I shall leave this earth knowing with the last breath I draw that my fate was always safest in your hands.

 

Author Unknown